It’s the most obvious thing to say, that you’re surrounded by the opportunity to gamble. I didn’t realise it would start immediately at the arrivals gate at the airport, but you’re probably never further than a few feet from a fruit machine in Vegas. Unless you’re a staunch anti-gambler, it can be very much part of the experience. My tactic? Change up a set amount of chips, and already consider them lost – a one-off payment to sit at a table, play cards and have a drink for a while. If you leave with anything, that way it’s a bonus. Keep to your limit, and don’t get your head turned by the bells and whistles.
2) See at least one show
You name it, you can see it on stage in Las Vegas, from magicians and hypnotists to burlesque and probably a few things to make your great aunt’s glasses steam up. However, the big shows at major resorts are there as world-class productions, and they are generally done on an astounding scale.
I plumped for the Cirque du Soleil’s ‘Love’ show at The Mirage. Beforehand, I wasn’t set to be impressed by either people on a trapeze OR the music of The Beatles, but two hours later, I was almost weeping in my seat, such is the overwhelming intricacy and spectacle of this show. It was honestly one of the most impressive things I have ever seen.
3) Hit Fremont Street
The Strip as it stands is a fairly modern creation, and for a slice of old school Vegas, head for Fremont Street, a short taxi ride away. Here you can see the iconic neon signs of yesteryear, including legendary spots such as the Golden Nugget. It feels more gentle and less cynical, part of a simpler age, even though that age was run by notorious gangsters. There’s no trace of that now, and you can wallow in retro cool without fear of the Mafia.
4) Negotiate the streets
Vegas is not a pedestrian-friendly city, though additionally it’s hardly ever worth taking a cab between venues as The Strip isn’t that big. If your journey doesn’t let you take advantage of the mostly excellent tram system, look to use the over-ground walkways. Many of them cut through hotels, most of which are connected on some level, so you can snake through the crowds with relative ease. Just try to avoid street level, where the masses inch along narrow pavements, and you’re surrounded by touts flicking their business cards, most of which appear to be illustrated with scantily-clad women.
5) Take a trip out of town
Even on a short trip, I felt that taking a break from the noise, lights and omnipresent piped music was essential. The easiest, most adventurous and scenic excursion is probably to a nearby little hole in the ground called the Grand Canyon. Unless you want to spend hours in car, the way to go are the helicopter trips, which, because of the amount of local competition, are more affordable than they might otherwise be. Within a few minutes, you can be sweeping past some of the world’s most dramatic scenery, a genuine wonder, and some of the rides even set down and stop for lunch in the canyon itself. Thoroughly recommended and an experience that will stand out among the indoor pleasures that make up most of a Vegas trip.
6) Grand Canyon
When the neon lights get too much, retreat to the Grand Canyon and some of the world's most breathtaking scenery
Seek out independent experiences
Not everywhere in Vegas is an international corporation’s idea of fun. There are experiences out there that not everyone will have and are worth hunting around for if you don’t want to step onto the usual casino/buffet/show conveyor belt.
Oh, and they’re way cheaper. Fremont Street is actually where you’ll fond most of the independent businesses, and it feels somewhat authentic.
7) Eat like a king
Vegas traditionally had quite a shaky reputation for cuisine, all cheesy diners and low-rent buffets. Now, the culinary scene has swung quite the other way, and huge international names have moved in. Even multi-Michelin star restaurants have set up shop to lure those high rollers in, including Joel Robuchon, who has a branch of Atelier at the MGM Grand. There are incredible dining experiences to be had with slightly less chance of bankruptcy, though.
For a reasonable price, you can have a delicious meal, including such delicacies as Japanese River Crab or prime sashimi.
8) Consider the self-catering option
The above being noted, eating out all the time, or subjecting yourself to the gargantuan queues of the casino buffet system is not good for spiritual, financial or physical health. An alternative is to check into accommodation that lets you make your own meals. You don’t have to sacrifice designer décor, either. I stayed at The Signature at MGM Grand, attached to the hotel of the same name, but offering suite-type rooms with their own fridge and hob – perfect for eating healthily and on a budget. It’s back from The Strip, so there’s a sense of relative serenity, and other than that, it’s a full service hotel, so you don’t feel out on a limb, either.
9) Take a limo
There are times when you do need to hop across town. Limousines of the stretch variety aren’t the most subtle way to do this, but then you’re in Vegas, where even subtlety is letting itself go for the weekend, and running around in a gold lamé jump suit. If you’re in a group of four or so, it’s almost as cheap (rates are negotiable, depending on how quiet the driver is) to commandeer a limo – they’re usually lined up at hotel entrances. Take the driver’s card, and you can be ferried around all night in delightful tackiness for only a tweak more than a boring taxi.
10) Travel Facts
Virgin Atlantic fly from London Gatwick to Las Vegas, with fares starting at around £722 return.